Half way

I’m sitting at the chart table, another night at sea has begun. It’s just past 1900, Eva is on first watch; 4 hours until 2300, then I have the midnight hours until 0300, and Dave gets the dawnie. Each day the schedule rotates, so we get to mix it up. We left Bora Bora yesterday around mid day, destination Niue. The passage started with a little breeze as we sailed away from the island, but by late afternoon we were wallowing in the swell without any wind… had to run the engine nearly non stop until mid day today. This morning we found ourselves in one of the strangest seas I’ve experienced; bucking about in short, steep 10-15 foot waves with a 6 second period combined with a load of swells and waves from other directions. Rafiki was getting thrown around all over the place … and still no wind, which meant no steadying force to damp her motions. It was as though we were sailing through the aftermath of a strong wind that had changed direction, creating cross seas, but no evidence of wind on the horizon or the forecasts. Bizarre, and very uncomfortable. Noticing a broken batten at the top of the mainsail, we dropped it so that I could sew in a few stitches to shorten the pocket and re-insert the longer section of the broken batten. Just as I finished the job, my normally tough stomach was just starting to hint that I’d spent enough time being thrown about, clinging with one hand to a shroud, the other juggling pliers, needle and dental floss (which makes great sail thread).

Fortunately it only lasted a few hours and now the sea has gone back to what we’re used to – a gentle rolling swell from the south – and we have 10 to 15 knots of wind on the beam. Much more comfortable. Everyone managed to put away a tasty “Skipper’s Speciality” dinner of stir-fry veggies and tofu. We’re just passing south of the island of Maupihaa, one of the outliers of French Polynesia that rarely gets visited by yachts, most just passing by like we are. It’s about 4 miles away in the darkness, but nothing is visible on the low, sparsely inhabited atoll. Even if the charts (which have been spot-on since Mexico) are off by a couple of miles, we’re well clear. Looking ahead down our route on the plotter, I’m assessing our options for the next couple of months; times, distances, anchorages, likely weather. We’re now about half way to Australia! As the seagull flies, it’s 3640 miles back to Puerto Vallarta, and 3040 on to Coff’s Harbour on the east coast, about half way between Brisbane and Sydney. Looking at the log book, we’ve actually sailed 4265 miles from PV, and it’s going to be about the same on to Oz.

In all these miles we’ve only sailed through one country – French Polynesia. But what a country! Starting with the mountainous Marquesas Islands, lush vegetated volcanic rock surrounded by deep, dark seas … then on to the flat coral atolls of the Tuamotu archipelago – incredible colours and sea life in remote lagoons … then the hustle and bustle of Tahiti and the Society Islands. The Societies are a mix of the two other island groups; central volcanic peaks like the Marquesas, surrounded by fringing coral reefs and turquoise blue lagoons like the Tuamotus. As though someone was experimenting with different geographies in different areas of the Pacific. This island group is the one that most people visit; easy access from Tahiti and a load of resorts and lodges. I was apprehensive that it would feel spoilt and crowded, but we’ve had an amazing time. Because we’re early season and most of the other boats crossing the Pacific are still way behind, we’ve had plenty of anchorages to ourselves. And of course being out on a boat in the lagoon isolates us from the tourist life ashore and in the resorts. A few nights ago Rose and I spent the evening sitting on the side deck, legs dangling over the side, watching the sun set over Bora Bora – wonderful memories that will stay with me for ever.

Now, though, time to focus on the miles ahead. Settle the mind and body into offshore passage-making mode. Rest when tired, look after the boat and crew, keep an eye on the weather, and munch through a few more books. I’m just coming to the end of Shackleton’s “South” – what an epic story. I’m blown away by the hardships those men went through. Yesterday I charged through Nick Ward’s “Left For Dead” – his story of the 1979 Fastnet race storm. Again, inspirational – the human body and mind is capable of incredible things.

Right, it’s getting late, I should be sleeping. Hopefully tonight will see us into some decent trade winds and we can make good speed to the west…