We’re on our way! 150-odd sea miles from Alameda, we’re tucked into a visitor slip in Monterey Harbor. The trip from Tiburon took just under 24 hours. At 8pm on Friday, after dinner at Sam’s Café, Rose, Ali and I sailed out under the Golden Gate Bridge in a nice breeze – which unfortunately dropped off before we’d cleared the shallow area outside the bay, which meant we were motoring into a large choppy sea without the wind to stabilise us. The boat was rolling, pitching and twisting over every wave, which wasn’t comfortable. But soon the wind picked up a bit, and as we got further out into the Pacific, we managed to sail for a few hours. Wind from the south again, like our last trip to Santa Cruz! It’s supposed to come from the north around here … but a cold front is passing through so again we’re close hauled, tacking down the coast. In the early hours of the morning the wind dropped off again, so the engine came back on.

Ali and I took casual turns on watch through the night, Rose taking some rest below, not feeling too hot after the early bumpy ride. Our first Pacific dawn was pretty good – the sun very briefly splashing the bottom of the clouds with pink before poking its head up over the land.



About mid morning we were motoring along, rolling with the glassy swell, gradually making way towards Santa Cruz. I looked aft and saw a load of disturbed water, almost as though there was a puff of wind catching us up. Dolphins! Hundreds of them, riding the face of a wave, jumping clear of the water and looking very excited to see us. They stayed with us for about half an hour, riding the bow wave and getting a good look at us. At one point they all charged off to the left together, did a big loop around, and approached us again from astern. Magic. Looking in the book later, we think they were the Pacific Common Dolphin. I don’t think I’ve ever seen such a large pod.
At lunch time, off Pt Ano Nuevo, the wind picked up from the north – whoopee! We rigged the jib out on the pole to starboard and the main on a preventer to port, and enjoyed classic downwind sailing all the way to Santa Cruz at nearly 7 knots. Hopefully it’ll be like this all the way to Mexico…
We spent the night at the fuel dock in Santa Cruz, and then met Kate and the kids in the morning – they’d driven down from San Francisco for the day. Family time! We headed out into Monterey bay to see if we could find some whales. No luck this time, but we had a great sail in the sunshine and wind.
Dropping off the family back on the dock at Santa Cruz, we made a sharp turn around and dashed south back across the bay towards Monterey – making the most of the sun and wind. The 20-odd miles took us just over 4 hours, starting off as a reach before the wind backed a bit. Close hauled we still made our course, and on the way saw a pod of Risso’s dolphin – huge things that we thought were whales until we checked the handy guide given to us in Monterey Harbor. As the fog closed in around us at sunset, we saw spurts of vapour from another great beast, and then the flukes of a huge tail disappearing below the surface. Whales! Rose thinks they were gray whales. So much wildlife out here.
Just before arriving in Monterey the fog cleared and the wind dropped, leaving us to motor gently into the harbor under a starry sky – about 8pm. It’s noisy and smelly – the pontoons opposite are heaving under the weight of sea lions, barking and shouting. Rose rustled up some pasta and then I crashed out, exhausted.
Today has been a relaxing day around the harbor and town, a bit of work in the morning, stocking up on more snacks from Trader Joe’s, and sorting pictures. We’ve not really made a dent on the snack stock that we got a couple of weeks ago, but something in me says we are going to be needing all the treats we can get for morale and energy over the next few days. Healthy tasty snacks = happy energetic crew! Tomorrow morning we leave at first light for Morro Bay, about 110 miles south.

























































